Lost Luggage and the Art of Traveling Light

Clockwise from the top left: one of the many, many, many portraits of Diego Maradona, a beloved football player in Naples, who has forged an enduring, almost mythic status among the city’s football fans; looking up at the blue sky, surrounded on all four sides by the facades of Neopolitan apartment buildings, street art of Sophia Loren, the iconic actress who had Neapolitan roots and embodiment of Italian cinema and glamour; street art translation: “my cat still asks for you when I talk to him;” one of the many passageways seen while wandering the streets.

Often overshadowed by its gritty reputation, Naples is a city that might initially intimidate some travelers with its tales of urban chaos. Yet, those who venture beyond these stereotypes find themselves in a vibrant hub brimming with rich history, stunning street art, and delicious food. The narrow lanes of Naples buzz with life (and vehicles), leading to hidden gems like the historic Napoli Sotterranea. From its legendary pizzas to the colorful stories depicted on its walls, Naples offers a unique and authentic Italian experience. By stepping off the beaten path, one can savor not just great pizza, but a slice of genuine Neapolitan life, proving that the most unpretentious facades often hide the most enriching experiences.

Debunking Myths: The Real Story of Safety in Naples

When someone says “Napoli” a lot of people tend to think of organized crime, pickpockets, and other things that raise the hackles on the back of one’s neck. The media hasn’t helped Naples’ reputation with its glorification of organized crime, either. However, Naples is just as safe as every other large city in Italy and even Europe. My best advice is to keep your valuables close to you, or better yet, in the safe of your hotel room. Just like in Rome and Florence, you don’t want to do things like put your camera or purse on the back of a chair while you have dinner. Keep your items on your and your pockets zipped up and you’ll be just fine!

The most “in danger” I felt was walking down the narrow and crowded streets while motorcycles and cars carried about their daily activities. While it feels like Spaccanapoli and Via dei Tribunali are pedestrian streets, the occasional motor vehicle will remind you otherwise. This is the biggest reason to stay aware of your surroundings, you’ll want to get out of the way!

Left column has 3 photos. Top photo is the Napoli Sotterranea sign outside the main entrance. Middle photo is some of the water that remains underground. Bottom photo is one of the few narrow passageways through the underground experience. The column on the right is one of the large rooms that was carved out from the tufa with stairs.

The Hidden History of Napoli Sotterranea

Naples’ has an underground world that I did not expect to experience! Carved from the region’s unique tufa rock, these man-made caverns have a rich history dating back to 470 BC when the Greeks first transformed the area for water storage. This network of cisterns and aqueducts evolved over centuries as the city expanded and the tufa was extracted for construction projects. In the 16th and 17th centuries, despite laws against using external building materials, Neapolitans ingeniously expanded underground cisterns to meet their needs. This intricate underground system became a vital refuge during World War II, sheltering citizens in adapted aqueduct structures. Post-war, the underground was neglected, often used as a dump, until rediscovery and rehabilitation efforts began in the late 20th century. Today, you can take a guided tour through Napoli Sotterranea to see glimpses of wartime life, including drawings and inscriptions left by those who sought shelter there.

The word “aiuto” — which means “help” in Italian — carved into the tufa, put there by someone using the space as a bomb shelter during WWI.

If you aren’t claustrophobic, I highly recommend checking out Napoli Sotterranea! There are some VERY narrow passageways in complete dark, but if you don’t mind a little thrill, the beauty and the history you experience are so worth the adventure. It’s completely safe, you aren’t going to fall off anything into something else.

Inside, you can explore the ancient aqueducts initially constructed by the Greeks and later expanded by the Romans. These impressive engineering feats provided water to Naples for centuries and are a testament to the ingenuity of ancient civilizations. You’ll learn how the underground tunnels were repurposed as air raid shelters during World War I, providing safety for the residents of Naples during bombings. And, one of the most intriguing parts of the tour is the partially excavated theater of Emperor Nero. Hidden beneath the bustling streets of modern Naples, this theater remains a hidden gem, showcasing the rich historical layers of the city and offering a unique look into its cultural past.

Top row: Pizzeria I Decumani and spritzes from a spot somewhere nearby. Bottom row: a baba ah rhum, palle ‘e riso, and frittatina.

Tasting the Street Food of Naples

Now that we’ve worked up an appetite, it’s time to explore Napoli’s amazing street food! Scott arrived in Naples before I did and went on a food tour, and now that he is an expert in the culinary wonders of the lively city streets, he took me to his favorite stops from the tour.

Pizzeria i Decumani was our first stop where we had palle ‘e riso (fried rice balls) and frittatina (basically deep-fried mac and cheese!). I could eat these every day for the rest of my life! I wanted to try more things, but we also had pizza on our agenda, so I needed to save my appetite as much as possible. We went next door to grab a sweet bite from Pasticceria Capparelli. Their Baba al Rhum comes drenched in rum and if you consume alcohol, this is not to be missed! We needed to wash everything down, so we grabbed spritzes on the way to the pizza place. There are many spots you can grab one to go and they come in all sorts of (bitter) flavors!

Fuck the Diet (and the wait!)

Then it was on to L’antica Pizzeria Da Michele for dinner. Established in 1870 by Michele Condurro, this pizzeria has a long history and is often regarded as one of the oldest and most respected pizzerias in Naples. It became famous after it was mentioned in Elizabeth Gilbert’s “Eat, Pray, Love.” In the movie, this is the “fuck the diet” scene where Julia Roberts’ character Elizabeth and her friend Sofi realize there is more to life than restricting your own pleasure in the feeble attempt to please others. It’s a scene about self-acceptance and finding joy in the simple pleasures of life, like enjoying a meal without guilt.

Not surprisingly, this is a very popular spot. When you arrive, you check in and get a number. There are two lines, one to eat inside and one to get a pizza for take away. We didn’t want to be waiting for food all night and figured it would be faster if we got our pizza for take away. We were wrong! The person in front of me checking in was seated in about an hour and I think Scott and I waited about an hour and a half for our pizzas.

While we were waiting, I hopped over to the bar across the street (Novità Street Food) to grab a couple beers. The woman who was working said we could bring our pizzas back over when we got them and sit and eat them there, which was really kind! We did exactly that and ordered more drinks from her. The pizza was good, but not worth the wait. If you love the movie, eat inside and get your photos, then go see our new friend across the street!

Family-Owned Delights

Novità Street Food is a family owned joint where we met a lovely woman named Annalisa who worked there. We said we’d come back, and we did the next day, but she wasn’t working! I’ll make it a point to go back and eat here next time I visit. There was a younger guy who worked there, too, and told us his favorite place for pizza was Bro Ciro & Antonio Tutino Pizzeria, and of course we checked it out the next day!

“Bro” is the pizzeria of brothers Ciro and Antonio Tutino, the fifth generation of a historic family of Neapolitan pizza makers. While the pizzeria is a bit out of the way, it is worth the journey. The restaurant is beautifully decorated and our pizzas were top notch!

A tale of two pizzas: Top row, the outside of Pizzeria Da Michele and the pizzas we waited too long to get. On the bottom, amazing pizza from Bro Ciro & Antonio Tutino Pizzeria.

Embracing the Soul of a City

Our tummies and hearts full, our journey in Naples concludes. We are left with a tapestry of unforgettable experiences, from the depths of Napoli Sotterranea to the culinary heights of its renowned pizzerias. Naples, a city that challenges perceptions, rewards those who delve deeper, offering a rich blend of history, art, and flavor in every corner.