Lost Luggage and the Art of Traveling Light

When my friend Scott told me he had Bari on his list of destinations of his 3-week long vacation in Italy, I knew I had to join him and find the “Pasta Ladies!” I had seen videos of them on social media, and the idea of homemade pasta in the charming setting of Bari Vechhia filled me with excitement!

Top left, four plastic bags, each full of colorful orecchiette, sundried tomatoes, plain orecchiette, and taralli. Top right, a table display of taralli and peppers in Bari Vecchia. Botton left, one of the famous “Pasta Ladies” effortless making some orecchiette. Bottom left, the orecchiette on a screen, drying in the sun.

Witnessing the Art of Orecchiette in Bari Vecchia

La Signora Nunzia delle Orecchiette is located on two streets next to each other just outside the castle – Arco Basso and Arco Alto. This experience is not to be missed! These artisans work in the open, setting up their orecchiette-making workstations at the thresholds of their homes. Here you can watch as they knead, cut, and shape dough with an effortless rhythm that’s mesmerizing to watch. This isn’t merely a culinary process; it’s a vibrant thread in the social fabric of Bari, where every roll and pinch of pasta is accompanied by the lively chatter and communal warmth that characterizes Italian street life. And further, these women have turned the streets of Bari Vecchia into an open-air museum of Apulian culinary arts.

Also, the orecchiette was the best I’ve ever had! I need to go back and get more. I also got sun dried tomatoes and taralli from them, which were also amazing.

Focaccia and Bruschetta

We walked down each street of Bari Vecchia probably at least twice. Though it is a little touristy it is still a slice at Italian authenticity – residents often left their doors and windows open, and I couldn’t help but to glance in like the Nosy Nelly I am. Nonnas in their muumuus cooking in their kitchens while other family members helped prepare the meal, or sat and watched television to stay out of the way. Kids running around playing. People riding their bikes on the way to/from work. It was a refreshing slice of authentic life!

Top photo, bruschetta from Voglia… Pane e Vino. Bottom left, focaccia and a Peroni from the Santa Rita Bakery. Bottom right, a cafe latte, orange juice, and pasticciotto from Caffè Vergnano 1882.

Another place to fill your face with deliciousness is the Bakery Santa Rita (Str. dei Dottula, 8). Check in with the “bouncer” to get your number and wait in line for some of the best focaccia you will ever have! I got some with tomatoes and grabbed a Peroni with lemon, and we walked a few minutes to enjoy it while looking out at the Adriatic Sea. Not a bad way to spend a Monday afternoon!

We also had some amazing bruschetta and wine at Voglia… Pane e Vino (Piazza Mercantile, 5) to round out the day. If you like tomatoes, you’ll be in heaven in Bari!

Pasticciotto, Yet Another Apulian Delight!

I would be remiss not to mention our breakfast. We were looking for a cute spot where we could sit and enjoy our breakfast and look out at cute things, and picked Caffè Vergnano 1882 since it appeared to be right next to Giardini di Piazza Umberto I. There’s wasn’t really a cute park view from the tables outside, but it was on pedestrian street that offered plenty of people watching. They had a combo for a caffe, juice, and a pasticciotto. This was my first time even seeing the word “pasticciotto,” so of course I had to get one, not ever knowing what it was! And I was not disappointed.  

A pasticciotto is an Apulian pastry, characterized by its flaky, buttery shortcrust exterior which encases a heart of sumptuously smooth custard and topped with powdered sugar. The filling I had was pistachio, and after my first bite I was OBSESSED. I ordered one of each of the remaining flavors for Scott and myself to try, a lemon and a frutti di bosco (berry).

Scott eating a panzerotto the size of his face from Pizzeria Di Cosimo!

A Different Side of Bari – Do as the Locals Do

Those are a couple of the culinary treasures we found north of the train station, but for my last recommendation, we are venturing south of the train station. Less touched by tourism, this part of the city offers a glimpse into the daily lives of locals, set against a backdrop of apartment buildings and commercial spaces.

On the train to Bari, Scott got talking to a local and asked where all the best places to eat were. This is how we learned about Pizzeria Di Cosimo. We patiently waited until 7 p.m. for them to open. I think we got there a little bit afterwards, and there was already people waiting. And this is definitely a place that’s worth the wait!

I think this place has pizza, but that is not what we were after. Scott’s train BFF told him to get a panzerotto, another staple of Apulian cuisine that I can best describe as the result if a sopapilla and a calzone had a delicious, delicious baby. Ours was deep-fried to golden perfection, resulting in a crispy exterior and a melty, flavorful interior of gooey cheese and amazing tomato sauce. Pizzeria Di Cosimo is 2.2km and about 30 minutes’ walk from the train station, but it is well worth the journey!

A Melting Pot of Flavors

I cannot recommend spending at least one day eating your way through Bari. From the historic charm of Bari Vecchia with its pasta artisans to the modern scenes south of the train station, Bari is deliciously captivating with its intertwining of history, culture, and food! Whether indulging in the creamy delight of a pasticciotto, relishing the crispy, savory panzerotto, or simply soaking in the vibrant street life, Bari offers an immersive experience into the soul of Apulia and should not be skipped.