Lost Luggage and the Art of Traveling Light

Located just a half-hour by train south of Naples, and on the other side of the active volcano Mt. Vesuvius, is one of the most popular archeological sites in Italy: Pompeii.

Pompeii was an ancient Roman city founded in the 6th century BCE. It flourished as a prosperous port and commercial hub due to its strategic location near the bay and thrived under Roman rule. It was a bustling center of trade, culture, and industry.

However, Pompeii’s fate took a tragic turn in 79 CE when Mt. Vesuvius erupted cataclysmically. The eruption buried Pompeii and several nearby towns under a thick layer of volcanic ash and debris, preserving them in a remarkable state of preservation for centuries.

For nearly 1,700 years, Pompeii lay forgotten until its rediscovery in the 18th century. Excavations began in earnest in the mid-18th century, revealing an astonishing snapshot of daily life in ancient Rome. The remarkably preserved ruins offer valuable insights into Roman architecture, art, and social customs, making Pompeii one of the most important archaeological sites in the world.

Today, Pompeii stands as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a popular tourist destination, attracting millions of visitors each year who come to marvel at its ancient streets, houses, and artifacts, frozen in time by the devastating eruption of Mt. Vesuvius.

A silhouette of the centaur statue in the Forum at Pompeii

I have visited Pompeii three times since I moved to Italy. It is so vast that it is nearly impossible to see everything in one day. My first visit was on a rainy day last May that promised to be the last day of sub-80°F (26°C) temperatures for months to come. The second was part of a day trip tour which also included Vesuvius with a friend visiting from the US. The third was another self-guided trip with my bestie when she was visiting.

Not only is it impossible to see everything in one day, but the park also keeps publishing archeological discoveries, so even if you do manage to see everything available the day of your visit, there is quickly something new to keep you coming back!

How to get to Pompeii

One of the most popular ways to reach Pompeii is by train. The Circumvesuviana train line connects Naples with Sorrento and stops at the Pompeii Scavi-Villa dei Misteri station, located right outside the archaeological site. While this is what all the guidebooks says to do, I couldn’t seem to book my tickets using the Trenitalia app, and to make it easier for me to manage all my tickets, I decided to take the regional train from Naples to Pompeii and then the bus from the Pompeii station to the site. However, it does seem that the xxx has a Tap&Go system, so ticket management might not be an issue!

I’m glad I did it this way, because it was how I got introduced to one of the best guidebooks in existence.

Get this Guidebook: I Have Seen Pompeii

A triptych of the cover of the book called “I Have Seen Pompeii,” the map that is included, and a spread that describes the streets of Pompeii.

This “I Have Seen Pompeii” guidebook was worth its price (€16), and I learned so much more about Pompeii from it than I did on the tour I went on. I found it at the tourist information booth just outside the train station. I went inside with a question about where the bus to the site picked up (just outside the station, red bus, can’t miss it) and she asked if I wanted a tour guide or a guidebook. I was honestly going to buy a book from the gift shop to work through on my visit, so I thought this was perfect. There’s a map of all the open areas of the park and each of its highlights are numbered so it’s easy to look up each one and read about it. There are plenty of photos, too. And it gives you some sample itineraries based on how much time you have.

Accessibility

Expect to do a lot of walking on top of treacherous cobblestone, climbing up and down step stone steps, and stepping onto sandy/gravelly paths that might not have completely drained after the rainstorm. I averaged about 27,000 steps on the two self-guided days I was there.

The park seems somewhat accessible for those who use a wheelchair, in that, I saw someone in a wheelchair exploring the park with a friend. It seems like the park allows visitors to use trekking poles with rubber tips. Follow this link to learn more about Pompeii for All and the way the park meets accessibility needs.

Tickets: Pompeii+ and Villa of the Mysteries

I very highly recommend you get the ticket that includes Villa of the Mysteries which is located in the “suburbs.” It’s €22, which is €4 more than the “Express” ticket that keeps you inside the city. It’s about a 10-15 minute walk to the Villa of the Mysteries, and it might feel like you are walking to the exit of the park, but keep going.

The information plaque at the Villa of the Mysteries showing who might be in the frescoes.

The Villa of the Mysteries has some of the most wonderfully preserved frescoes in Pompeii. They depict a series of enigmatic scenes believed to be related to the initiation rites of a mystery cult, possibly the Dionysian Mysteries. The vivid colors and detailed imagery provide valuable insights into ancient religious practices and beliefs. And they are some of the most beautiful frescoes I have ever seen!

Visitor Facilities and Amenities

There is a pretty good cafeteria located in the Roman Forum. Pay attention to the two lines, one will lead to coffee and the other will not. If you are looking for un caffè, I believe you want the line on the left. The line on the right is for food only. Don’t take my word on it though, pay attention when you get there. Nothing is worse than needing coffee and then realizing you’ve been in the wrong line for 20 minutes! There is also a good selection of grab-and-go snack options in the cafeteria as well.

There are also bathrooms in the same building as the cafeteria. See other visitor services here.

Guided Tours

I have done two guided tours to Pompeii. One was about nine years ago, and recently when I went with my friend visiting from California. Not all tours are created equally. While I do not remember the tour group I went with nine years ago, I remember that tour being good. On both tours, we only saw a fraction of Pompeii and stayed at the very bottom of the map.

This last tour we were on, I also wish I knew which tour group offered it so I could tell you to avoid it. The guide rushed us through each of the stops and told us not to take any photos. It was a busy day and I understand he was also trying his best to corral us so none of us got separated, but he wouldn’t let us wander around and take photos while he was talking. We had the headphones on to listen to his explanation of each of the stops on the tour, so we would still be able to hear him. It was just not an ideal experience.

If you just want to check Pompeii off your bucket list, a guide would be a very efficient way to get to the site, get in, and get out. The tour me and my friend did include lunch and Vesuvius, too, and if it wasn’t for the crappy guide, it would have been a nice day trip!

My best advice is to read reviews and go with a smaller company directly from their website. Sites like Viator make it convenient to find and manage tours while on vacation, but they are a third-party site, and can sometimes be a mixed bag.

My bestie Rachel reflected in a ginormous puddle in the Forum at Pompeii.

Tips for Planning Your Route

I was going to make a list of “must sees” to help you plan your visit to Pompeii, but honestly, there is so much to see there that my favorites might not be what you care about!

One idea is to do an internet search for “top things to see at Pompeii” and you’ll get many sites that will show some photos and descriptions of popular places at the site.

You can also go to their website where they have three paths for you to follow if you plan to spend 2, 3, or 5 hours at the site. There is also an interactive map that you can click on to see images and get a description of each of the points of interest.

Whether you are planning your first visit or your third, Pompeii promises a unique adventure into the heart of ancient Rome, leaving you with memories that, much like the city itself, will stand the test of time. I hope you find these tips helpful and enjoy your time at Pompeii!