Sunsets at Santa Severa on the Etruscan Riviera

Every time I discover a new place in Italy, I feel like I’ve found a hidden treasure, but Santa Severa is something truly special. Imagine a picturesque castle nestled on a sun-kissed beach – it’s the stuff of fairy tales, yet it’s real, and I had the pleasure of spending three glorious days (June 28-30)…

Sooo I know I say this nearly every day, but I think I have found my favorite place in Italy! I spent three days (June 28-30) at Santa Severa, and it was *The Perfect* getaway!

One thing I have noticed during my short time here is that the summers are intended to be spent by the sea. Or the lake, whichever body of water you prefer. I wanted to get away for a few days, but I didn’t want to spend a lot of money on a local trip, so I went to Hostelworld and explored my options along the sea. Once I saw a castle on the beach, I knew I had found my travel destination, and it only got better from there! This small frazione is packed with beauty, history, and charm.

Side note: I’m hoping to figure out if I’m more of a “beach person” or a “lake person” by experiencing the best of both while I’m here!

Fortress Foundations on Etruscan Roots

The history of this area is really cool, especially if you are an Etruscan history nerd like I am. Santa Severa was once known as Pyrgi, which was an Etruscan port dating back to the 7th Century BCE. It was the most important of Caere’s (modern-day Cerveteri) ports due to its position along the Tyrrhenian shipping routes. Pyrgi became Castrum in the first half of the 3rd Century BCE, then the castle was built between the 10th and 11th centuries CE. It is named after a young Christian woman or girl who was martyred there in 298 CE, which was during the Diocletianic Persecution. I can’t find much more information on her, but she was killed along with her two brothers, as the legend goes.

Discovering Museum Treasures

Though not much is known about Severa, there is a great deal known about the area. There are at least two museums located at the castle; The Museum of the Territory and the Museum of Sea and Ancient Navigation. Both are located inside the castle grounds and are well worth the visit. Who doesn’t want to wander in and out of a castle like a 15th-century nobleperson? Although, now that I think about it, there was an exhibit on the fashion over the centuries – quite a lot of layers and wool. The temperature the day I visited in June was 81F/27C, and I’m pretty sure I would have died had I been wearing wool gowns!

A triptych. Top row has 2 photos, on the left, 2 suits of armor in front of a window looking out to the sea from inside the castle, on the right, an alcover with murals surrounding a window looking out to the sea from inside the castle. On the bottom, 3 gold sheets with ancient engravings on there on a burgundy cloth.

They had a copy of the Pyrgi Tablets, which are the oldest historical source documents from pre-Roman Italy and are rare examples of texts in Phoenician and Etruscan languages.

A Hostel Fit for Royalty!

Just kidding, royalty would NEVER.

But I would! I was looking for a budget-friendly option, and I was not disappointed! Two nights for a single bed IN THE CASTLE ON THE BEACH was €120! While this is a hostel, all of the rooms are private and include a private bathroom. I have stayed at my fair share of hostels in my life, and this is by far the best one, yet. My room was super clean, the bathroom itself was almost the size of my room, and the shower had water pressure sent by gods. And it was clean, clean, clean! While they did provide towels, there were no toiletries. I was not upset at all, I just ran to the grocery store in the town and grabbed what I needed. There is a large, shared kitchen/dining area with vending machines for snacks and coffee. Some of the rooms even have a water view!

A single bed with white sheets in a small hotel room with terracotta tile floor.

Each of the rooms are named after Etruscan deities, which only makes me love it more. My room was named after Laran, who is the god of war and also appears to be an underworld god. Among his attributes is his responsibility to maintain peace.

I can’t wait to stay here again!

Sea, Sun, and Sand

Because I’m so new to Rome, I didn’t know that the exact time I had chosen to visit Santa Severa was also The Feast of St. Peter and St. Paul, a holiday in Rome. A lot of people came out to the beach, but it didn’t feel too chaotic. There is a public beach right next to the castle and many private areas where you can rent chairs and umbrellas.

View of the beach from inside the castle, there's lots of umbrellas on the sand next to azure water and a blue sky.

I rented a chair and umbrella from Isola del Pescatore for €18 for the entire day, 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. The beach was clean, especially along the privately owned areas where they sweep up the kelp and seaweed in the morning to make it as nice as possible.

A collage of photos. Top left, my e-reader with the ocean in the background. Top right my breakfast - a cornetto with lemon cream and a cappuccino. Bottom left, aperitive, a limoncello spritz with some snacks on the beach. Bottom right, a kitty sleeping on a table at the cafe.

There are many restaurants on the beach, and the castle has a nice café, as well.

The castle is also home to many stray cats, some whom will appear friendly, but I recommend resisting your instincts to pet them, even if they rub up against your hand while you are sitting on the bench minding your own business – trust me, lol.

When Can I Return??!

From its rich Etruscan history and fascinating museums to the serene beauty of its beaches and the unique experience of staying in a castle-turned-hostel, Santa Severa has etched a special place in my heart. It’s more than just a destination; it’s a vivid tapestry of culture, history, and natural splendor. For anyone seeking a blend of historical intrigue and coastal relaxation, Santa Severa is a hidden Italian gem waiting to be discovered.

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